Dog Point Section 94 Sauvignon Blanc 2021

Intriguing and aromatic, this has a singed note to the up-front peach, honeysuckle and jasmine flavors, but the lush core is pure melon, apricot and lemon curd on a fleshy frame. Finishes with candied ginger, marmalade and spice, with fresh vibrant acidity.

Unlike most Marlborough Sauvignons, the 2021 Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc is cropped low and hand-harvested in a bid to increase concentration and restraint, respectively. This is a Scrappy Doo of a wine with its youthful “lemme at 'em” vivacity. It has masses of dissolved CO2, clearly visible on pouring, which provides a slight crackle in the mouth. The wine is citrus-driven, with lemon and lime meeting pineapple and more subtle details of jasmine, green herbs and flint. The finish is powerful and intense, potentially due to the naturally low yields of 2021 adding that extra punch. I'd like to leave this another six months to allow Scrappy Doo to calm down, although I suspect it'll be put on wine lists and sold before then.

Like two flint rocks striking one another, there’s a smoky, sulfuric aroma that mingles with toasted nut and oyster shell. More delicate fruit (pithy lime) and floral aromas arrive after some time in glass. There’s a textural richness to the palate. It’s sliced by razor-edged acidity. Crunchy and citrusy with length and poise, this manages to be delicate and bold all at once. It’s a divisive style but one that enormously rewards time and food.