Washington & Oregon

I don’t know if you’ve noticed, but the price of California wine continues to edge upward despite the market research that shows that there is a glut of wine on the market that’s likely to get worse because the millennials seem to have found a lot of wine alternatives. In the last two weeks I’ve seen a number of reports saying that wine is getting cheaper…but…frankly, I’m still waiting.

Over the course of the last couple of years I have discussed at length the values that abound among the wines of France, Italy, and Spain, despite the import duties. But there are domestic values as well…and a good place to look for those values is the Pacific Northwest – that is, Washington and Oregon.

Washington is a great source for quality red wine – notably, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. But Washington also offers real values in Chardonnay and Riesling. Oregon offers Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris (Grigio), and a little Chardonnay and Riesling. So, basically, these two states cover all of the varietals most widely consumed in the United States.

Truth be told, for Pinot Noir drinkers Oregon is hardly a secret. And while many Oregon Pinot Noirs can rival their California counterparts in pricey-ness, it is still easier to find a solid Oregon PN in the $15 - $20 price range than it is to find one from California.  

Oregon Pinot Gris, on the other hand, consistently delivers great value. None of these are as modestly priced as the least expensive Italian Pinot Grigios, but they invariably deliver riper fruit notes (apple and pear), and a more balanced acidity, most often at prices well below those of the better Italian PGs. It is not hard to find an Oregon PG that is better, and several dollars less, than Santa Margherita.

Washington provides boundless values. There are expensive Washington State wines, and they are wonderful, but there is probably no greater source for really nice $10 - $20 wines, red or white than Washington State. In this price range, you are not finding wines for the ages, but what you do find are everyday wines that garner scores of 87 – 89 year in and year out that will never threaten your budget. Most of the wines from the Ste. Michelle Wine Estates fall into this category. Ste. Michelle is not just Chateau Ste. Michelle, it is also Columbia Crest, 14 Hands, Erath (Oregon), Intrinsic, and Northstar. They will let you spend more serious money, if you wish, on the wines from the Spring Valley, Col Solare, (and in California, Conn Creek, Stags’ Leap Wine Cellars, and Patz & Hall) labels. But while the high-end Ste. Michelle labels are fine wines, it is the value in the lower end labels that is most amazing.  

Ste. Michelle is not the only producer in Washington, though at times it might seem like that when you look at the shelves. There are many other smaller producers whose quality is equally good. And there is a simple reason for that. Washington State is a great place to grow viniferous grapes. And not only do they grow a lot, they produce a wide range of varietals. As I noted at the outset, while they are best known for the reds, they also produce a lot of Chardonnay and Riesling, along with a fair amount of Sauvignon Blanc and Gewurztraminer, and even some Viognier.

The Chardonnays generally lean toward the oaky, creamy side. The Rieslings are often racy examples with wonderful acidity. The 2017 Eroica Columbia Valley Riesling, for instance, reminds me of a German Feinherb Riesling at a price more modest than any German Feinherb you’re likely to encounter.

This discussion has been very broad and vague, but that’s because what the Pacific northwest has to offer covers a very broad spectrum, and too many people seem to be afraid to sample these treasures. Don’t be afraid. These are seriously good wines. Jump in, and save some money without sacrificing quality. Cheers!