Thanksgiving Dinner 2019

The burning issue at this time of year is what wine(s) to serve with Thanksgiving Dinner. Well, it’s my burning issue, and a more pleasant one to grapple with than many of the other burning issues of our time. And since Thanksgiving is an American Holiday for which there is a somewhat scripted menu, I am basing what follows on the traditional dinner menu, along with recommendations of American wines.  

There are general rules to keep in mind. Reds and Whites should have lively fruit and ample acidity. Whites should also be fragrant, and Reds should also be low in tannin, since the overall effect of tannin is one of drying, something that the white meat of your roast turkey is not looking for.  

People ask if there is one wine that will work across the board for Thanksgiving, and there is. It is Sparkling wine. Sparkling wine can effectively handle the Thanksgiving soup to nuts journey without misstep. I heartily encourage the use of sparkling wine because it is festive – the arrival of the day’s mail, for instance, is just one event enhanced by the addition of sparkling wine. But for something as festive as Thanksgiving, I think it’s imperative. You can start with it, and for those who want white, or don’t really like red, they can continue with it right through dessert…or switch to a still white. While I normally drink Brut or Rosé, for Thanksgiving, I suggest Blanc de Noirs or Rosé (although Brut will work).

For still whites, most highly recommended is DRY Riesling. It is lively, fragrant and has wonderful acidity – and dry Riesling is NOT sweet (have a sweet Riesling with dessert if you like them, but not dinner). It will deal well with most of the flavors of the day, and also serves as a palate cleanser. If you are still afraid of Riesling, try an Oregon Pinot Gris. It has the acidity of Italian Pinot Grigios, but typically shows more fruit intensity and fragrance, and provides a solid alternative to the Riesling.  

For the reds, my two favorites are Pinot Noir and Zinfandel. I tend to alternate – odd years Pinot, even years Zin. Just so we’re on the same page, Zinfandel is red, not pink, and it is not sweet. Zinfandel deals nicely with the earthier fall spice flavors of Thanksgiving – brown sugar, cinnamon, allspice, cloves and nutmeg, as well as root vegetables like yellow turnips, and works especially well with dark meat turkey. Pinot Noir accentuates the fruit flavors of many Thanksgiving sides, particularly those with cranberry, and, as it often shows notes of mushroom, deals well with the more savory dishes.

While you can drink whatever makes you happy…and you should, I really wouldn’t drink a Cabernet because of the tannins, except in the instance you choose to swap out your turkey for a Prime Rib/Chateaubriand; and while Chardonnay would go with some appetizers or sides, overall, it’s not a great match for Thanksgiving dinner. If you absolutely need Chardonnay, drink an unoaked version.

Finally, don’t pick out your Thanksgiving wine the day before, unless it’s a wine you’ve previously tasted and loved. Sample several potential candidates in advance and choose the one(s) you enjoyed the most.

Following are fine examples of the varietals discussed, at less than $25/bottle:

Zinfandel. 2015 Foxglove Paso Robles, 2017 Three Wine Co. Contra Costa, 2017 Seghesio Sonoma County, 2016 Green & Red Chiles Canyon. Pinot Noir. All 2017 Maison l’Envoyé ‘Straight Shooter,’ Stoller Willamette, Averaen Willamette, Hahn Santa Lucia Highlands; 2015 Timbre ‘Opening Act. Riesling. All 2017, Chateau Ste Michelle Columbia Valley, Elk Cove Willamette, Eroica Columbia Valley, Forge Cellars Finger Lakes; 2016 Ravines Finger Lakes. Pinot Gris. All Willamette Valley…2016 Acrobat, 2017 Elk Cove, 2017 Four Graces, 2018 Duck Pond. Sparkling. All Non-Vintage. Gruet Brut, Rosé, Blanc de Noirs; Chandon Brut, Blanc de Noirs; Mumm Brut, Rosé ; Schramsberg Mirabelle; Roederer Anderson Valley Brut.