Riesling - Part 2

Last month we discussed Riesling at some length but, by necessity, we spent most of the time discussing German Rieslings, and what the terms on their labels say about the contents of the bottle. But early on, I observed that many wine critics feel that Riesling is the world’s finest white grape because of its ability to express the place where it’s grown along with its ability to age. So we need to look elsewhere as well.

While you need to try German Rieslings, we should discuss other places that produce Riesling. After Germany, the next place you want to look for outstanding Riesling is the Alsace Region of France. The Alsatians would (were they looking over my shoulder as I write this) hotly contest my deference to German Rieslings. The Alsatians produce wines from four white grapes (Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, and Gewurztraminer), but make no mistake the most esteemed grape of this Alsatian quartet is Riesling.

Look carefully when you are examining wines on the shelf, because many of the finest producers of Alsatian Rieslings have names like Hugel, Trimbach and Zind-Humbrecht – those are all French wines. Alsatian wines share a lot of the racy characteristics of the German Rieslings, but (although not exclusively) they are, more often than not, very dry. 

To the south of Germany, Austria also produces very fine Rieslings, although the distinctly Austrian white grape is Gruner Veltliner. Austrian Rieslings tend to show the same minerally character as their Gruners, and are usually dry, though sometimes off-dry.

In addition to the Rieslings from Germany, Alsace and Austria, you will find very fine Rieslings from Oregon, Washington, and Australia that you will most certainly enjoy. Again, these are mostly dry ones.  

Another region’s Rieslings that you definitely want to sample and really get to know are those of the Finger Lakes Region of New York. In my opinion, the Finger Lakes will ultimately become the American Alsace, or perhaps more accurately, the source of some of the finest New World Riesling. You will find some Gewurztraminers, Chardonnays, and reds there, but it has become clear to most of the producers in the Finger Lakes that Riesling is their calling – or certainly the calling of their climate and terroir.

Their vineyards are maturing, producing finer quality grapes, and the winemakers continue to grow in their ability to interpret the Riesling grape in terms of the Finger Lakes terroir.

It really is time to sit up and take notice of Finger Lakes Rieslings. They continue to grow in stature and the dedication of that region to this grape suggests that this is a long-term growth pattern.

That said, I find that Finger Lakes Rieslings, as one might expect, have their own characteristics…that they reflect their own terroir and style – again displaying the wide profile range of this grape. I find Finger Lakes Rieslings to be a little softer and rounder than many of their European counterparts, but with the softer, rounder fruit character comes an appropriately milder acidity that nonetheless still provides the appropriate length and depth.

One of the attractive aspects of New World Riesling is that, most often, they are labeled dry, semi-dry or sweet – but remember, while that is simpler, I have armed you with the German lexicon, and frankly you need to try all of the many versions of Riesling, if for no other reason than to grasp just how large the world of Riesling really is.

Try some of these very affordable Rieslings: Alsace – Trimbach 2015; Hugel 2016; Austria – Brundlmayer 2015 Kamptaller Terrassen; Washington – Chateau Ste Michelle 2017 Columbia Valley (off-dry); Eroica 2016 (off-dry); New York – Ravines 2016 Dry; Forge Cellars 2017 Dry Riesling Classique. Cheers!