Cabernet Franc

Most often I talk about wine regions and the wines of those particular regions. This month, since a lot of people ask about it, and seem interested in trying it, let’s talk about a grape – Cabernet Franc (from here forward, Cab Franc). The good news is that Cab Franc is produced in a lot of places. The bad news, sort of, is that it is not always that easy to find solid examples for much under $25/bottle.

Cab Franc has a long history and is part of a very distinguished viniferous lineage, mostly of its own making. It is a parent of both Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot – the former from a cross with Sauvignon Blanc, and the latter from a cross with the rather obscure Magdaleine Noire des Charentes (Cab Franc is also a parent of Carmenere). As all parents hope that their children’s lives will be better than their own, Cab Franc was certainly a successful parent. But this is part of the reason why it’s not always easy to find it as a stand-alone varietal. Given the genetic links, Cab Franc has proven to be such a natural blending partner with its more famous offspring that while dad is still there coaxing their careers along, he is seldom on stage in other than cameo roles.  

Cab Franc is characterized by raspberry, cassis, spice, and pepper, as well as herbaceous and vegetal notes ranging from tobacco to bell pepper. On the nose it offers perfumed and floral aspects. It’s success as a blending grape derives from the above characteristics, particularly its aromatics, as well as its natural balance and elegance. Cab Franc is less tannic but more floral and perfumed than Cabernet Sauvignon. It is more tannic than Merlot. So, it adds elegance in blends with Cabernet Sauvignon and structure in blends with Merlot.

There is general consensus that the best Cab Franc comes from Bordeaux, specifically the Right Bank (St. Emilion, Pomerol, Fronsac). But while there are a few Right Bank wineries producing wines where Cab Franc is the predominant varietal, they are few and far between and not widely distributed. The remaining wineries, that is, the vast majority, seldom use more than 40% Cab Franc, and most often, substantially less than that.

Regardless of the quality of Bordeaux-grown Cab Franc, if you want a wine that is going to tell your palate what Cab Franc is all about, you must look elsewhere. But not too far elsewhere – 150 miles to the northeast in the middle of the Loire Valley the red wines of Chinon, Bourgueil, Saint-Nicolas de Bourgueil, and Saumur-Champigny must contain 90% Cab Franc (10% Cabernet Sauvignon is allowed), but most are 100% -- so, in the Loire, one finds true Cab Franc wines. These range from lighter bodied to medium-plus bodied wines, with the weightier examples coming from Chinon and Bourgueil.

A second place to look for Cab Franc is Argentina. Many people in the wine industry feel that this grape will be the next big thing coming out of Mendoza. It has been planted there for years and added to many Malbecs and Cabernet Sauvignons, but in recent years Argentina has produced more wines in which Cab Franc is the primary varietal – and many of these are quite impressive.

You can find many examples from California, but they are often more expensive than a lot of Cabernet Sauvignons. Like most wines from California, they are riper and more opulent examples that emphasize the dark red fruit notes. They are very nice, but, as I said they tend to be quite expensive (under $30/btl is a find). You can also find some very respectable examples from Long Island.

To properly introduce yourself to this grape in its purest form, try Chateau de Coulaine 2015 Chinon Bonnaventure (do give this an aggressive decant a couple of hours before you intend to drink it, or wait a year); El Enemigo 2014 Mendoza Cab Franc Alto Vale de Uco; Philippe Alliet 2013 Chinon Vielles Vignes. A domestic blend at $10/btl is the Columbia-Crest 2016 Limited Release ‘Gold’ Red Wine, which is 65% Cab Franc (the balance Syrah and Malbec). Cheers!!