Tuscany

This is definitely red wine weather. Suitable for any red wine occasion are the red wines of Tuscany. There are +/- 60 DOC(G)s (appellations) in Tuscany. For red wines, most of the DOC(G)s require a substantial percentage of Sangiovese in the blend.  

It is hard not to love Sangiovese. It’s most endearing qualities are red-to-black cherry fruit notes and a bright acidity that makes it the perfect pairing for so many Italian dishes (a surprise…yes?). Depending on where and under what conditions it is grown and vinified, the resulting wines run the gamut from lighter bodied to full-bodied with extraordinary depth.

Following are the Tuscan DOC(G)s you will routinely encounter and their Sangiovese requirements: Bolgheri – max 50%; Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino – 100%; Chianti – min 70%; Chianti Classico – min 80%; Maremma Toscana – min 40%; Morellino di Scansano – min 85%; Vino Nobile and Rosso di Montepulciano – 70%. Safe to say, if you drink and like any of these wines, you like Sangiovese. 

It’s important to note that what distinguishes one Tuscan wine from another is not merely a matter of how much or how little Sangiovese is required for the DOC(G). Though both Rosso and Brunello di Montalcino are comprised of 100% Sangiovese from the exact same region, a Rosso will come from lesser vineyards and younger vines grown at different altitudes and sun exposures, and will be aged for a year or less. It and the Brunello (aged 4 years) are two very different animals. So, despite the many commonalities, where the grapes are grown and the manner and length of aging will significantly impact the depth and character a particular DOC(G) wine displays.  

While at first glance Tuscany seems very much a one-trick pony, there is a wild card in this deck, and it is the IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) Toscana designation. IGT translates to Typical Geographical Indication – in other words, a typical wine of the region. But these wines are, more often than not, anything but what was historically typical for Tuscany.  

In the 1970s, many Tuscan winemakers began to produce wines from grapes not allowed by DOC(G) rules, and many of these wines became some of the finest wines produced in Tuscany. In the wine trade, they were given the name “Super Tuscans,” but by Italian wine law they were designated as Table Wine (i.e., plonk). The IGT designation was created to distinguish these wines from table wine.

An IGT Toscana Rosso designation requires only that the wine comes from somewhere in Tuscany. It can be produced from any combination of 25 red grapes, with or without Sangiovese – and many are produced without it.  

So, you have the IGTs, which can be almost anything, and, in the DOC(G) wines, the varying amounts of grapes such as Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah that complete the various DOC(G) blends greatly affecting the flavor, texture and body of the wine. Commonalities aside, Tuscan wines are as much different as they are alike. [Note: varietally labeled wines are also permitted in Maremma Toscana DOC and IGT Toscana wines – the bottle must contain 85% of the labeled varietal.]

One final note, Tuscan wines are extremely versatile food wines. Because of their diversity, there is probably a Tuscan wine for just about any meal you might want to put together. Clams on the half shell with cocktail sauce and lemon accompanied by a light-bodied fruity Chianti with good acidity – perfect.

Some modestly priced (under $20), but excellent examples of these wines include: Poggio al Tesoro 2015 ‘Mediterra’ (Syrah, Cabernet, Merlot); Salcheto 2015 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano; Poggio al Tufo 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon; Brancaia 2015 ‘Tre’ (Sangiovese, Cabernet, Merlot). Poliziano 2016 Rosso di Montepulciano. Fattoria Rodano 2015 Chianti Classico. There are many more!!