Spanish Reds

Some of the very best values in red wine can be found among the offerings from Spain. Spanish reds feature grape varietals widely grown here in the US (Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah), and some of those we’ve discussed relative to France (Grenache, Mourvedre, Carignan – Garnacha, Monastrell and Cariñena in Spain), as well as varietals that are distinctly Spanish (Tempranillo and Mencia).

The Spanish reds you’ll most likely encounter are those of the Castile-Leon, Catalonia, Murcia, and Rioja Regions. Castile-Leon wines cover a fairly wide range. Three appellations that have notable reputations for their wines are Ribera del Duero (RdD), Toro, and Bierzo. The grape of RdD and Toro is Tempranillo locally known as Tinto Fino and Tinta de Toro respectively. The grape of Bierzo is Mencia.

Mencia is generally a lighter-bodied aromatic red with a somewhat delicate flavor profile that can, nonetheless, be quite intense, suggesting greater weight than it possesses. It does not like oak and is treated very sparingly, if at all, with wood. Because of its intensity it handles a wider variety of foods than this description might suggest, and because of its inherent freshness and uplifting acidity, it is a good choice if you want a red with your sushi.  

Tempranillo generally produces medium-weight wines that display a wide range of flavors depending on where the grape is grown. It is moderately tannic, and modestly acidic. It likes oak, and the vanilla accents it imparts. It is very versatile when it comes to food. It ages nicely, and is, most often, very approachable in its youth. The wines of Ribera del Duero and Toro are generally the burliest expressions of this grape, and many of them want cellaring before they can be truly enjoyed. If a wait is required, they are invariably worth that wait, but you can find many to have with dinner tonight.

While RdD and Toro produce outstanding versions of Tempranillo-based wines, Rioja is the appellation most closely identified with Tempranillo. Geographically larger than either of the other two areas, it produces the largest share of Tempranillo-based wine and consequently shows a wider range of expressions. Unlike RdD and Toro, where the blend is 75% - 100% Tempranillo, Rioja affords winemakers greater latitude as the blend may also include any amount of Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuelo the winemaker chooses to employ. The typical Rioja blend is 60% - 70% Tempranillo with +/- 20% Garnacha (which is used only sparingly in RdD and Toro – 5% or less).

The most notable red wines of Catalonia are those of Priorat and Montsant. Their reds are most often blends of Garnacha and Cariñena, but they may also include Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, with the latter three trending higher in the blend at the expense of the Cariñena, and overall, Syrah’s role increasing among these 3 French varietals. These wines have been compared to those of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, and the blend seems to be headed in that direction.

Monastrell (Mourvedre) is the red grape of Jumilla (in Murcia). Monastrell is actually a native of Spain, and its Spanish versions tend to be richer, and, very often, less tannic than the French. It is a rather large wine, that will handle just about any meat dish that comes its way, and Spanish Monastrells are certainly more readily available and modestly priced than their French and American counterparts.

A number of readers have suggested that I add some recommendations of the wine types I discuss. So, the following are drink-now examples of these Spanish wines that will cost you $20 or less/bottle: J. Palacios Petalos del Bierzo; Emilio Moro Ribera del Duero; Bodegas Gil Luna Toro Tres Lunas; Bodegas Olarra 2010 Rioja Reserva Cerro Añon; Tarima Hill Alicante Monastrell.