Three Whites of Southern Italy

The summer may be winding down, but the weather will still be warm or mild for another month or two. So, the season of white wine is hardly over. But if you’re tired of drinking the same old white varietals, I’d like to suggest three tasty alternatives from the Campania region of Italy.

For reference, Campania is the shin of the boot, and its big city is Naples. The three grapes I think you should get to know are Falanghina, Fiano, and Greco Bianco. OK…not exactly household names…unless you live in Campania. But give them a try, and they will probably become household names (in your home anyway).

In Ancient Rome, the wines of Campania were among the most sought-after wines of the time. All three of these grapes are of ancient origin. Despite their long history and esteemed status in bygone centuries, today these grapes are grown and known almost exclusively in Campania.  

Fiano has small cultivations in Puglia and Sicily, and tiny plantings in Australia and the US, but the other two grapes stray no farther from Campania than neighboring Puglia, Calabria, and Abruzzo, where even there, they are minor varietals. Since the turn of the current century, they have been slowly but steadily gaining in popularity, and deservedly so. The increased attention has prompted improvements in quality as well.  

All three of these wines are fragrant and see no oak or malolactic fermentation. They all have ample acidity to balance the often-intense fragrance and fruit. Their focus is on freshness, crispness, and length.  

Fiano is fragrant, and on the palate can show pears, tropical fruits, hints of hazelnuts and honey (many of the vineyards border fields where hazelnuts are cultivated). Depending on where the vineyards lie, the wine may be minerally and tense, or somewhat rich with nut and honey accents. Fiano is sometimes aged sur lie (see July’s discussion on Chardonnay), which intensifies the fruit notes and often enhances its nutty character. Fiano is produced throughout most of Campania, but the most notable expressions are usually the Fiano d’Avellino bottlings from the vineyards around the village of Avellino.  

Greco Bianco (which is believed to have come from Ancient Greece – hence the name, which literally translates to Greek White) is particularly fragrant, sometimes with floral aspects. It is most often characterized by peach and almond notes on the palate. For its combination of fragrance and taste, it is sometimes compared to Viognier. Unlike Viognier, however, which can age, when it comes to drinking Greco, the younger the better. The finest examples are typically the Greco di Tufo wines from the vineyards around the town of Tufo.

Falanghina is similarly fragrant often displaying citrus blossom, orange, and hints of pine on the nose; but on the palate it is mostly about apples and pears – which sounds like a Chablis, but the lingering effects of the fragrant nose, give it a very different feel.

Given the intensity on both the nose and palate, these wines can handle more than just light appetizers and simple seafood. Fiano, for instance, does well with fish or chicken with green sauces, such as Pesto or Salsa Verde. Falanghina can handle chicken, and for those who shy away from red wine, a good Falanghina can work with very simply prepared beef. Greco will go nicely with seafood pasta dishes, and pork, the latter even with a light bbq sauce.

Still…if you just want to sit on the deck/patio and sip a refreshing white wine as an aperitif as you enjoy one of the remaining balmy days of late summer…Saluti!